MiamiHerald / In the center of this seaside resort town, the electricity snapped on a week ago. The seafood restaurants began serving lobster and the mashed plantain dish mofongo .

The free Sunday salsa lessons resumed on an outdoor plaza cooled by a soothing ocean breeze. Dozens of storm-weary Puerto Ricans, refugees from San Juan and elsewhere looking for a break from tough conditions at home, watched and sipped cerveza as children darted through dancing legs.

At night, the famous glow-in-the-dark bay down the road – illuminated by bioluminescent microscopic organisms that light up when touched – seemed brighter than ever because the nearby lights are still mostly out.

“We were so surprised. Nothing happened here. They have electricity. They have everything,” said Carlos Aponte, 28, who drove to the town with his wife and sister to escape the misery of the eastern town of Gurabo.

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